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Surf Philosophy

Thoughts and Ponderations About Surfing and How to Be Happy

By Steve Redditt (1961-____)

My name is Steve Redditt. I am just another surfboard and surfwax manufacturer, but remember that when you purchase a surfboard or surfwax you are supporting someone´s philosophy. Many of the large and established brands of  surfboards and surfwax have been sold quietly lately. The people who purchase large and established surf-brands almost always are not the type of people that surf. All they think about is profiting more and more. Generally, the first thing that goes out the window is the sponsoring of athletes and events. Soon afterwards,  the quality and the tender loving care in making the surfboards and surfwax goes down the drain. The lastest industry novelty is the shape machine which is in generalized use by the larger surfboard manufacturers. We are now witnessing, over the last few years, the invasion of synthetic surfwax. This type of surfwax irritates the skin and can be fatal if ingested. Be careful with your surfwax folks! I ask you: what do you prefer on the wall of your room? A xerox of a painting by Van Gogh, or an original painting done specially for you by a local artist? A plate of home cooking or a tin-can lunch full of chemicals? Check out your manufacturer ´s philosophy  (often hidden and purely commercial/capitalist) before buying! Surfboards  are just surfboards and surfwax is just surfwax, but surf philosophy is everything!
Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards and KingFrogWax Surfwax!

Evolution of the human being as a surfer, applicable codes of surf ethics, surfers´ rights and duties, surf history, a practical manual for beginning surfers, surfboards and useful equipment, surfwax, surf music, the surf industry, professional surfing, freesurfing, beaches and surf spots, secret points, the promotion of peace, love, and the development and improvement of the condition of the human race, poetry and pure surf philosophy, surf as a system of social organization, surf and the reproduction of human beings, surf as way of knowing God and His myriad creatures, and a bunch of thoughts that I would like to share with you who wish to become more familiar with some of the possibilities of maneuvering, positioning, and reasoning of a surfer.

Surf Philosophy is Preponderant .
Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

It supercedes all other philosophies due its infinite amplitude and reach. The study and application of surf philosophy  develops the frontal lobes of any living being and has undeniable positive effects upon the quality of living of those who come into contact with it. I write these thoughts as a gift to all surfing enthusiasts in the present, past and future. I was raised, learned to surf and make surfboards in Hawaii in the sixties and seventies. Barry Kanaiapuni, Ben Aipa and a bunch of surfers who worked at the old surfline factory taught me the basics. I was a little brat who used to hang out at the workshop in Ala Moana and often cleaned  the back yard in exchange for laminations or repairs for the surfboards that I would shape from broken surfboards that I would find on the beach when the surf was giant. I peeled them to reuse the foam. We spoke Pidgeon, a dialect of English which is only spoken on the beaches and among the simpler people of Hawaii. When I was 10 years old my family  moved  to Kauai, where I improved my surfing in Nawiliwili and Hanalei. At twelve I was tube riding backside over the coral reefs without blinking an eye. Nowadays, I live in Brazil, I still make surfboards for my friends and family, and speak Portuguese daily and therefore these thoughts will be mainly written in Brazilian Portuguese  (Please pardon my unperfect Portuguese), but all forms of communication will be used here without prejudice. Please remember that everything that I write is only my opinion and that I do not have any formal credentials as a philosopher, journalist, historian, or anything of the sort. I am just an old surfer who has a very intense mental life. I am also a professional musician and I hold a lifetime membership with the Musicians Order of Brazil beginning  1988. I play electric, acoustic, and bass guitars well, and sing reasonably. I like to write songs and will publish some of them on the site. I hope these words help all to be happier. If you want me to make you a custom surfboard, send me an email or call me at (55)-(21) 9202-4288 and I´ll find a way to make you happy too!

Please Enjoy Your Stay on Earth.
Surf Forever.
Respect you the Be Respected

Being a Surfer Is Indispensable To Your Happiness. 

Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

I became a surfer at age five and since
then I haven´t been able to understand myself as anything else. The few times that I tried to abandon surfing were disastrous and ended in depression and misfortune. The return to surfing normality always demands a lot of effort and one pays a very high price for having set surfing aside.
Never stop surfing.

Surfing is the Art of Making Beauty
out of Chaos.
Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

Being a good surfer requires the ability to forsee the unforseeable. The waves of the sea never repeat themselves and the possibilities of sequences of aquatic events are infinite. Your objective must always be to make the world a better and prettier place by way of your dance ("Hula"). The sea is the perfect place to prove that you deserve to live. It was from the sea that all existing life on this planet came. Your maneuvers must be calculated to show beauty, goodness and superiority. even  when you salute the rising sun, you are executing a surf maneuver. Always be aware that the entire universe is watching everything you do, and that your place in the universe is defined by the maneuvers you decide to execute. Radical and unexpected maneuvers are as valid as stylized and cool maneuvers. What definitely is not fair are violent and intentionally harmful maneuvers. Hurting someone intentionally while surfing is a hideous crime. Always be nobler. This is how old hawaiian society decided who would be king, queen, or a member of the nobility. Those that demonstrated superior attitudes could occupy higher social status and thus acquire more extensive rights in surf and life in general. A good example of this is the fact of that the higher one´s nobility, the longer could one´s surfboards be. The “average joe” had to surf laying down on shortboards. Part of the explanation for this is the responsibility factor involved in surfing a longboard in a crowd. In those times they didn´t have straps and the surfboards were made of solid wood, weighing much more than the surfer himself. Imagine the danger of a giant surfboard weighing almost a hundred kilos sweeping the inside full of children and women. Only a nobleman to keep the integrity of the people.

Hawaii is an Independent Country Despite Contrary Political Opinions

Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

Ask anyone born and/or raised in Hawaii.
This business of folks thinking that
Hawaii is a State of the U.S.A is a trip. In the future we will have another political division and Hawaii will be recognized by the ONU as a member country of the highest lineage. Many will defend Hawaii as the emanating center of modern human social organization. Till then people will just have to put up with this trip, knowing that in the end, the Philosophy of Surfing always prevails.
Below I have placed the flag of the hawaiian nation.

This flag represents the dream of a sovereign and independent Hawaii.

This next one is the current flag of the State of the Hawaii

This flag was commissioned by our most illustrious King Kamehameha in 1816. It also was, during other periods of history, the official flag
of the
Republic of Hawaii and the Territory of Hawaii.
This same flag has been flying for almost two hundred years over the beaches of
Hawaii,  representing
the Aloha Spirit and the philosophy of surfing.

 

All surfers have the right
of surf where ever they wish.
Hostile Localism is Stupidity.

A Few Pacific Local Surfers from the Recreio dos Bandeirantes. See how they emanate a pure energy that reminds one of children.
Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

As long as the Code of Aquatic Transit is respected, no-one can deem themselves owner of any beach or surf spot. The sea is a divine gift from God to us all. It´s pretty obvious that your rights end where the others´ rights start, therefore respect to be respected. If you are new in the area, go easy. Make an extra effort not to get in the way of surfers who are ripping the spot. Take your time, find good waves that no-one has caught and that  won´t make you drop dangerously on top of the crowd inside. Then show what you came for. Avoid trying to catch all the locals´ waves. If you compete to catch all the good ones all the time, you are going to get in the way of the local surfers. If you do,  you may run the risk of being punched out of the water or being chased away from the beach. Even when you are a local yourself, it´s necessary to be cool to avoid trouble. Unfortunately the new authorities haven´t produced many new surf-spots yet (artificial reefs) to attend to the reality of the increasing population of surfers. Who will be the noblefolk of the future who will solve the problems of the people?
Is there a good king or queen to come in the future? I believe so.

Contact:   

ReddittSurf@hotmail.com 

ReddittSurf@yahoo.com 

Cell phone: (55)-(21) 9202-4288

Remember that surfboards are just surfboards and that surfwax is just surfwax.
Philosophy and goodness are everything. Surf 4ever.

Steve Redditt Hawaiian Style Surfboards!

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